On the Road to Taegu

Filed under: Motorcycles, Places, Korea — Jeff in Korea at 4:17 pm on Thursday, July 13, 2006

If you sit in your airconditioned cage and drive on the expressway while playing chicken with the other cars on the road, you can drive from Pusan to Taegu in about 45 minutes. However, motorcycles are not allowed on the expressways in Korea. Travel is limited to regular highways and local roads. The downside of this is that the drive from Pusan to Taegu takes about 3 hours. The upside of this that you get to see things that you can’t see from the expressway.

The first hour of the trip is spent driving through Pusan city traffic, past the airport, and down the highway to Kimhae. Once you get through Kimhae, the countryside opens up and you are free from the noise, smell and dust of the city and into a state of quietude and the natural smells of water, dirt, dung, and vegetation.

Gone are the block after block of highrise apartments and buildings. They are replaced by paddy after paddy of rice and other crops.

Crowded, tight, asphalt alleys give way to empty, wide open dirt roads.

Five minutes outside of Kimhae and you are utterly alone. Occasionally, you will pass an old man or old woman working the rice paddies in the distance.

Another 15 minutes and the road leads to a one-lane, steel bridge across the river. There should be someone at both ends of the bridge controlling traffic to make sure that the scattered traffic is flowing in only one direction at a time across the bridge. However, this is the contryside, and things don’t always work out that way.

The next quarter of an hour is spent driving through Samnangjin village and up into the mountains. Upon reaching the top of the mountain pass, the gorgeous vista of Miryang valley stretches out below you.

The ten-minute decent into Miryang City is breathtakingly beautiful. This stretch of road is one of the most perfect roads I have ever ridden. It is the reason that motorcycles were invented.

 

Coming down out of the mountains, the road runs along the tracks marshland into Miryang City.

After passing through Miryang City, and starting the final leg of the journey to Taegu, the road levels out for a while and runs through more rice paddies and on into the village of Chungdo. Shortly before reaching Chungdo, the road passes over a bridge overlooking children and adults playing in the river, fishing, swimming, and picnicing.

The road between Chungdo village and Taegu is lined for kilometers on both sides of the road with fragrant yellow flowers.

It takes longer than the expressway to get where you are going, but you are going to see a lot more on the slow ride through the contryside.

Click here to see more pictures from the ride.

8 Comments »

Comment by Jodi

13 July 2006 @ 4:26 pm

I have never been to Miryang City but have seen the outskirts of Gimhae and agree with you, the countryside surrounding in Gimhae is some of the most beautiful I have seen in Korea.

Comment by aletheia

13 July 2006 @ 6:21 pm

I used to ride my bike out of Pusan through Samnangjin village and around the mountains past Miryang in 1998-99. I especially liked the Ajumas selling Odang along the the side of the roadroad in those remote mountain. Also the Buddhist temples. Did you pass that Dam up past Samnangjin towards Miryang? I miss the view–beautiful but melancholy, maybe cause I was alone, and lost my girlfriend.

I left for Seoul in 1999, and pass by this area quickly (sadly) now and then on the KTX. Pictures never do justice to that area. Go again in October in the afternoon. That is when it is the best.

I’ve been riding a bike in Korea for 10 years now, and although I never take that “biking is Zen-like experience” stuff seriously, I did find moments of personal joy in the same place you did.

Comment by Jeff in Korea

13 July 2006 @ 7:17 pm

Aletheia,

If you go to Miryang through Kimhae, you come into Samnangjin far past the dam. If you come into Samnangjin from Yangsan, through the Jinyoung strawberry fields, then you have this view of the dam as you come out of the mountains into the village:

Incidentally, that picture was taken in front of a bunch of food stands where old ladies were selling odaeng and other food.

Comment by aletheia

13 July 2006 @ 11:19 pm

Thanks for the photo. I saved it to the computer. Be careful up in there. Occassionally, big trucks come barrelling around those corners, unless the construction since my time has allowed them to bypass the winding mountain roads.

Pingback by The Marmot’s Hole » Blog Archive » I guess it is time for a click-a-round

17 July 2006 @ 4:55 pm

[…] OK, maybe, Pusan Jeff has something to talk about…. Doh!  He is cruising around on his autobike.  At least he got in a great post on the continuing adventures of the Dokdo Riders. […]

Comment by Pelagius

18 July 2006 @ 4:00 am

Aletheia -
We’re hoping to do a bike tour of Korea next year. Could I email you for advice? I haven’t found much on the web, apart from an organized, van-supported tour agency.

Comment by dg611

20 July 2006 @ 2:04 am

I’ve been on that ride a time or two both on a bike and in a car. Heres a nice tip for the next time you want to go to Daegu. From the Samrangjin bridge hang a right (toward Yangsan) and hug the road that goes along the river…I can’t say exactly where the turnoff is but you want to go through BaeNaeGol (배내골) it is a long stretch of sometimes paved sometimes dirt and gravel road that ends up just south of WoonMoon Dam area…its a nice ride in a car for sure but is also pretty cool on a bike…beautiful valley (more like a gorge)with a clear stream running through it. Come to think of it…that is how you would find the turnoff…you would see where the stream/river runs into the Nakdong river it’s on about the only stretch of flat land between samrangjin and yangsan. It is on some of the better maps of korea you can buy and on the map it looks straight…but it is far from it.

Comment by Michelle

1 August 2006 @ 10:33 am

Great site.

I have a question for you. My boyfriend and I have been to Daegu for three months, and we’ve decided to get a bike.

Wow. How to start? Where to go? No ideas. And we don’t speak Korean yet, so that doesn’t exactly help.

Thoughts?

thanks!
michelle

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