Here is part two of my early adventures in Korea.
Read Part 1 here…
Prior to leaving, I had somehow managed to sit through "Dances With Wolves" twice. I thought it would be interesting to pick up the book as brainless airplane reading. Usually the first thing I do upon boarding a plane is to open the magazine to see when I get fed and what movies will be showing. However, for some reason that escapes me now, I did not do that. About halfway through the book "Dances With Wolves," the in-flight movies started. My jaw dropped and my stomach hit the floor with a gut-wrenching pain that nearly caused me to lose consciousness as I saw that the first of our in-flight films was to be "Dances With Wolves." I forced myself to sleep through the movie and woke up just in time for the next feature, "Look Who¡¯s Talking Too." Not being tired and not having anything with which to take my own life and put me out of my cinematic hell, I put my headphones on and listened to the best music channel available, "light sounds of the 70s" or some such thing.
It was during that flight that I had my first real encounter with the phenomenon that, until recently had no name. A friend of my has labeled it the "black box." I came face to face with the black box. The black box is an imaginary box that encases the head of most Koreans. In the West, we have a similar phenomenon that we call the "window of life." The western window of life is that window through which we view our reality. The window is covered with the various filters and shades that have been placed there throughout our life.
Thus, the window gives us our tinted, and sometimes tainted, view of the world that we perceive around us. The window with all of its filters is what causes us to stereotype people and to shelter us from unwanted and unfamiliar things. It helps us compartmentalize our surroundings. New experiences are run through the filters on the windows to see how these experiences conform to our understanding. Unfortunately, these western windows can shade and distort perceptions and lead to negative generalizations such as, "all Korean taxis drivers are out to screw Americans," and "Koreans do not respect the rule of law," and countless other sentences, usually stemming from a single unpleasant incident, beginning with "all Koreans are ‘X’."
Although similar to the western window, the Korean black box is a black-as-midnight anti-matter chamber. New matter enters the black box with only the greatest effort. Once new matter enters the anti-matter black box, there is an initial matter/anti-matter reaction where the new matter is processed and absorbed at a great risk of shock and extreme confusion. Another facet of the black box is that, like a black hole, once something gets put inside the black box, it very seldom, if ever, comes out again.
I must point out at this juncture that I am not attempting to be insulting or to put Koreans down or to be offensive in my description of the black box. I am merely trying to demonstrate the complexity and severity of the cultural, societal, and personal differences between Korean and western thought and action. The black box is neither good nor bad; it simply is. It is the natural product of an extremely homogenous society.
The black box has been built up and reinforced for thousands of years of Korean culture by various factors, including centuries and centuries of Confucian blind obedience and unquestioning acceptance of anything that is put into the box by elders or social superiors. The box continues to be fed by government officials and mass media. The practical effect of this black box is to set limits and boundaries as to how the individual Korean perceives the world. Unlike the western window that allows a view into the outside world of change, possibility, and new ideas, the Korean black box shields the Korean from the outside world and puts up an impenetrable wall that denies the existence or even possibility of something different outside the box than that which is inside the box. In order to survive and function successfully as a westerner in Korea, it is vitally important to learn to penetrate the black box in such a way that the matter/anti-matter reaction is minimalized and the perceptions that are inside the black box are modified to allow a new point of view or new perception of reality that can include your views and perceptions. As Korea becomes more globalized and exposed to things that are different, the black box is becoming easier and easier to penetrate.
My in-flight encounter with the Korean black box was when I ask the flight attendant for a copy of the Joongang Ilbo newspaper. I wanted to be informed of a few current events prior to landing in Korea. Because of my previous experiences with Korean and flight attendants, I knew better than to ask the flight attendant for a newspaper in Korean. I asked the Korean flight attendant for it in English. I said, "May I please have a copy of the Joongang Ilbo?" The flight attendant looked at me and blinked¡¦.She blinked again. A white guy asking for a Korean-language newspaper had smacked squarely upside the black box. She did not know how to process this new experience.
She proceeded to kindly inform me that the newspaper was in Korean. SLAM! The invading "Newness" was repelled from the black box and she was once again at peace knowing that she had corrected the foreigner who had mistakenly asked for a Korean-language newspaper.
"Yes, I know," I replied, "I would like to read it."
Conflict¡¦. How to proceed? That thing that did not fit into the black box was back again¡¦ "It’s not in English," she helpfully explained.
"I know. It¡¯s OK," I told her in English. For good measure, I finished up by informing her in Korean that "I can read Korean."
"We have English newspapers available. Would you like one of those?" was her predictable, but frustrating answer.
The conflict was nearing critical mass. "Give me the damned Joongang Ilbo," I barked in English. BOOM! I lose¡¦ My first real experience with the Korean black box was a failure. I didn’t know how to play the game yet.
As I stepped off the plane at Kimpo, I was hit by a wall of muggy, near boiling humidity. Ahh¡¦Korea. Would I ever get acclimated to her summers?
I knew where I would stay for the first couple of days. I though I would return to Masan, where I spent some 14 ¨ö months of my mission. It would be nice to visit some old friends and see how they were doing. I wanted to surprise everyone, so I did not tell a soul that I was coming. I landed in Kimhae and jumped a bus to Masan.
Once I had arrived in Masan, it was time to put operation "Surprise!" into motion. While I was a missionary living in Masan, I got my hair cut at this little beauty salon that was owned and operated by a flamboyantly homosexual guy who has served as an anti-terrorist commando in the ROK Marine Corp. I knew he would let me crash at his place for a night until I could hook up with my friends. His place was ideal because it was a stone’s throw from the bus terminal so I would not have to schlep a year¡¯s supply of junk all over the city.
I pushed, pulled, dragged, and rolled everything down the street to the beauty salon. I turned the corner and saw a truck off-loading lumber into where the beauty salon had once been. Crap! No problem¡¦the helpful people moving into the joint could help me; they could tell me where he went. Well, they could have helped me if they had known anything more than the fact that he had moved out a couple of days earlier. CRAP!
Well¡¦that left me in a fix. I scrambled to find another place to stay. The only person I could think of on the spur of the moment, with the afternoon sun climbing high into the sky, was my personal "hero," Mr. D.W. Lee. He was not a hero in the sense that he had done something heroic for me, but he was a hero in the colloquial sense that he was the person whom I admired most. He was an outstanding father of four. He was a wonderful husband. He was a caring, compassionate, ethical, hard-working man.
He accepted my imposition graciously. He not only allowed me to stay at his home that evening, he asked me to stay as his guest for the weekend. He insisted that I eat with the family. He offered me his car for my own personal use during the weekend (which I declined). Without my knowledge, he shut his factory down for a day so that he could drive me to Pusan and see that I was settled in my living quarters. Despite my several attempts, he would accept no money for room board, loss of earnings, transportation, or anything else he had done for me. I was humbled.
It did not take long after my arrival at Pusan National University for me to realize that the sheltered life of a foreign missionary was vastly different from that of ¡°real life¡± in a Korean bureaucracy.
My dorm room was situated on the side of cliff at the top of a mountain. It was officially called Mirinae Hall, but within about 48 hours, it had become affectionately referred to as "The Hell Hole." The Hell Hole was allegedly a newly constructed building. It was a five-story building divided into three sections with around 40 to 50 rooms per section (I have worked hard to repressed memories of the actual number). Two sections were for Korean students and one section was for foreigners ("foreigners" being myself, a Chinese girl, and an alcoholic instructor from Alabama whose father had served on the White Citizens¡¯ Council for his hometown).
The doors between the two Korean sections were open, allowing free exchange between the students of either section. However, the doors between the Korean section and the foreigners’ section were all chained shut with heavy-duty ¨ú inch chains. The reason for preventing the mixing for foreigners and natives, as explained to me by the Director of the International Affairs Office at the university, was for our safety and to prevent the Koreans from being blamed should anything from our side turn up missing.
Access to the building was such that the Koreans could have male visitors as long as the visitors signed in at the guardroom for the respective section. No females were allowed in the Korean section. The foreign section, on the other hand, was off limits to anyone, male or female. Checking in same-sex visitors was not an option. It simply was not permitted.
Building security became an immense source of contention. Building security for the foreign wing of the building consisted of a man being there during the daytime that was either asleep, drinking, or not doing much of anything. At 9:00 at night, the guard would chain the outside doors shut with the same ¨ú inch chain that secured the doors between the wings. He would then lock himself in a room and sleep throughout the night. He was extremely grouchy and put out if you happened to come home after 9:00 p.m. and had to pound on the doors and scream and yell until he woke up and let you into the building. If you happened to be on the inside and needed to get out, forget it. Your only option was to climb out the second story window and lower yourself the ground. Then, you would have to pound on the doors and wake the guard to get back inside.
The whole door-chaining incident came to a head during the Korean Thanksgiving holiday of Chuseok. Apparently they could find no one who wanted to baby-sit the foreigners over the long holiday. So, the building guards settled for an alternative solution. Sherry, the Chinese student, and I woke up the first morning of the holiday to discover that the guard in our building had gone. The doors were chained shut. They were chained shut from the OUTSIDE!!! We were faced with the prospect of being locked in the building for three days.
Communications were another nightmare. You could not call out from the rooms. You could receive calls in the room by way of a terrible switchboard connection. The only method for calling out was to use the single pay phone at the entrance to the Korean wing¡¦if you were lucky enough to have a phone card handy. Both the in-room phone and the pay phone were out of order more often than not. This was a problem in emergencies, such as the time when I sliced the bottom of my foot to the bone and could not walk off the mountain and I could not call anyone to come and get me. I was forced to patch up my foot using assorted household items. However, as bad as the communications problem was, it was the same as the Korean students were facing and I really could not expect better treatment than was afforded the Korean students.
Personal safety was a serious issue for Sherry. I was on the fifth floor of the building, Mr. Alabama was on the third floor, and some genius had assigned Sherry a room on the first floor furthest away from the guard room. On a regular basis, Korean men would bang on her windows late at night and tell her to come out and play. Worse yet, on a number of occasions, people had tried to enter her room through the windows. She was scared to be there alone at night.
For the above reasons, as well as numerous others that would take entirely too much time and space to go into, including the attempted rape of a student in a small grove of trees behind our building and right next to Sherry¡¯s window that Mr. Alabama and I broke up, Sherry and I commenced our efforts to get out of the building and into better, safer surroundings where we were not chained in and denied visitors.
Shortly after we began our crusade, the instructor from Alabama and a newly arrived instructor were moved from the Hell Hole to the "Foreigner Guest House" at the bottom of the mountain just outside the back gate of the university where another instructor had been living for quite some time. From that point, Mr. Alabama, who had been supportive of our efforts to get out of the building, threw his efforts into preventing us from moving into the foreign guest house on the grounds that he was an instructor and should not have to lower himself to live with mere students. Aiding Mr. Alabama in his endeavors to prevent us from moving, was the Assistant Director of the International Affairs Office who admitted to my face that he did not like foreigners.
The manner in which this particular difficulty was finally resolved was enough to curdle my stomach, and that turned out to be the easiest situation to resolve. War was on the horizon.
Wars do not start spontaneously. There is always an underlying tension, hatred, conflict, or other such factor, whether it be unilateral or mutual. The conflict with International Affairs at PNU started within hours of my arrival at the university and was always on the surface and open for public display.
Things started to go wrong when I was first shone my living quarters high atop Hell Hole Manor. The room, which was about 7 feet by 10 feet, contained a small metal desk and accompanying rickety chair, plywood shelves mounted above the desk, radiator, small clothes closet, and a very small, thin mattress laid out on a plywood platform. That was it. There was nothing else. No blankets. No pillow. Bed sheets were not even a consideration at that point.
There was no refrigerator in which to store food and keep it fresh. The nearest store was literally a one-hour round trip from the dizzying reaches of Hell Hole Aerie to the valley floor below and back up to the nest. However, if one chose to shimmy down the side of the mountain and climb down the rocks behind the law building, it was possible to shave up to 15 minutes off the journey. Thus, there was no such thing as making a quick run to the store to pick up a few things you forgot to bring up from base camp. The Hell Hole was located next to the student center so it was possible to pick up a few snacks, but, as it says in the Bible, man cannot live by ramyon and squid balls alone.
The reality of the situation was very unlike the picture that was painted prior to my coming. Months before I arrived, I received a list of things that were and were not provided. As bedding was not specifically mentioned, I inquired about it and was informed by they study abroad coordinator at Utah State University that such things were provided.
In addition to the bedding problem, I was somewhat taken aback by the room itself. It was nothing like what had been described to me. The President of USU had visited Korea to formalize the sister school relationship about a year prior to my arrival. At that time, he was driven up the mountain (and thus deprived of the pleasure of experiencing the summer hike up the cliff) and shown the rooms where students would be staying. He talked about these relatively spacious, two-room affairs with a nice desk and a high-swivel chair, double-size bed, telephone, refrigerator, and other amenities. He was told that the living quarters that he was flashing his optics at would be the rooms where students would be housed.
Upon seeing my room and noting the absence of just about anything resembling what the USU President had seen, including bedding, I wanted to know what was wrong. After Mr. Lee, the man who brought me from Masan, left, I asked the xeno-loathing International Affairs Assistant Director where everything was. He denied any knowledge of what I was talking about.
Later that night, I met Mr. Fix-it. Mr. Fix-it was the first full-year student sent by USU to PNU. He was the original guinea pig for the exchange. He was supposed to have left PNU, but he was still there hanging on as long as he possibly could. His communications with USU ceased not too long after his arrival in Korea. As such, USU officials were curious as to what had become of him. I was charged with finding out the details. He was the elusive and mysterious Mr. Kurtz, and I was Marlow.
Upon my arrival in the Heart of Darkness, I was placed in my dismal quarters next to Mr. Fix-it. Mr. Fix-it¡¯s father had also witnessed the Shangri-La that was allegedly supposed to have been my room. I was eager to meet Mr. Fix-it and find out exactly what was going on. My first impression was that he looked a lot like McGuyver. As it turned out, he was similar to McGuyver in that he could make just about anything out of just about anything else. I was particularly impressed by his bypassing the building¡¯s telephone circuitry to allow him to call out on his own phone both locally and internationally and have the calls billed to Mr. Alabama (who had attended Robert E. Lee High School).
Upon making Mr. Fix-it¡¯s acquaintance, we waded into his room through piles of unidentifiable things and bits and pieces of electronic gadgetry that gave me the vague impression that I had seen something like his room in a Terry Gilliam film somewhere, I asked him about the room situation and why it was so much different that what I had heard. I was not overly surprised to learn that the delegation from USU had been shown rooms on the second and third floor of the Hell Hole. The rooms, which were twice the size of ours, had been fully furnished in preparation for a delegation of important scholars from Japan who had stayed for a couple of weeks. PNU apparently never had any intention of letting students stay in those rooms.
I was not real happy with being screwed by the university right out of the gate. I was to come to the realization that my stay at the university would be a series of "bend over and grab your ankles for a good reaming" experiences. Of course that first night I was to learn of the door chaining policy. The no guest policy was soon to weigh heavily upon my soul.
I moved into the Hell Hole Hall on July 26, 1991. From that time, I would have numerous discussions with the International Affairs Office regarding my concerns. The vast majority of the time, I was only allowed to talk to a lovely woman in the office named Ms. Bae, I believe. She was genuinely concerned and wanted to make my stay as successful and as enjoyable as possible. However, she had about as much power and authority to make changes in my arrangements as did a piece of gravel in the parking lot.
Finally, on August 13, 1991, things reached their first peak and a confrontation was looming. Sick and tired of being jerked around for weeks, I decided to handle things my way, which, as is often the case, was the wrong way. I marched to the building where the International Affairs was located. I completely ignored Miss Bae and stormed over to the desk of the Assistant Director and said that I wanted to see the Director. The anti-foreigner Assistant Director informed me that the Director was not in his office.
When questioned about who was on the telephone talking in his office, the Assistant Director, without any explanation as to why he lied to me, said that the Director didn¡¯t have time to see me. I said that I had plenty of time to see him and would wait until he was off the phone. As soon the voice from the Director¡¯s office stopped, I started toward the door to his office. The Assistant Director jumped from his chair and stood spread-eagle between the Director’s door and me, thus physically preventing me from meeting the Director.
For some reason, as if the issue of no bedding was the most important issue I was facing, I looked the Assistant Director in the eye and asked him why the school said I didn¡¯t need bedding when I actually did. He denied that school had ever said such a thing. It was then that I made the most serious miscalculation. I will not call it a mistake, because I am convinced that I am right. I told him flat out that he was a liar and that PNU had lied about nearly everything in their sister-school contract with USU and everything they said to me. Well, I had just thrown a match into the gasoline that was our relationship.
The conversation deteriorated into a "how dare you call me a liar" oral battle. Interestingly, during the several minutes shouting match, the Director never came out of his office to see what the problem was. We were shouting language that was peeling the wallpaper off the walls. Miss Bae was in shock. The Assistant Director was a curious shade of dark purple. I was concerned that he was about to have an aneurysm. I was also struggling not to just reach out and pop the loser right upside his cocky little mug. It ended on a highly adult note when I told him to intercourse himself and stormed out of the room. All this and school hadn¡¯t even started yet.
To go burn off massive amounts of postal worker style anger, I went off campus to one of the ubiquitous local video game rooms (which have once again risen in popularity) and spent a couple of hours downing planes, blowing up aliens, and playing tile-matching games to see just how much of her clothes the little animated woman would take off.
During my cooling off time, I began to realize that what I had done was way outside of the Korean norm, even though I felt I was right about everything I said¡¦except maybe for the part where I raised questions about the guy¡¯s parentage and suggested that interspecies breeding may have come into play. If I was to have any success with this Korean experience, I was going to have to learn to deal with situations such as this before they got out of hand and how to rectify things that did get out of hand. It hit me that what was expected of me in Korean culture was to apologize to the guy.
Koreans, in general, have a very deep sense of something that for lack of a better word I will call honor. If a Korean has lost face and/or been offended by something you have done, there is a good chance that that person will never speak to you again no matter how close they were to you. Even if they do, ¡°forgiveness¡± is not easily won. Thus, I had to take the humbling step of doing something that just drives a stake through my heart; I had to apologize for something that I do not think is wrong. I would have to go back up there, swallow my pride and apologize for calling him a liar and apologize for everything else up to, and including, the fall of the Holy Roman Empire.
It was tough. It hurt. I wish I had never said those things, no matter how true they were. As Mark Twain said, ¡°In our country, we have three unspeakably precious things: freedom of speech, freedom of conscience, and the prudence never to practice either.¡± Unfortunately, I lacked prudence and exercised the other two simultaneously. I apologized. The crisis was ¡°resolved¡± and actions stepped down to cold war status once again. As a brief aside, I never did see that Director face to face. Never.
It didn’t take long for things to sour again.